Those enticed by the exotic paradise of the Sahara can begin their exploration in Marrakech which is the capital of south Morocco located between the Atlas Mountains and the ocean at the heart of the Haouz Plains. It is from here that numerous excursions of various character and duration begin. Marrakech itself is a place worth visiting promising a myriad of tastes and experiences amongst the hubbub, acrobats, magicians and even snake charmers making up a scene reminiscent of a Hieronymus Bosch painting. Having tired of the feast of color, sounds and noise in Marrakech head for Medina where travel agencies await tourists with offers of dreamlike excursions into the wilderness beyond the walls of the southern capital.
It is a tough choice deciding between the mountains and the desert so the best solution is to opt for an excursion that combines both. Costing approximately € 90 with Sahara Expeditions Company it includes a full three-day trip, two-night accommodation with breakfast and dinner. This trip is not for the faint-hearted and preparation to reach the agency at the crack of dawn on departure day is a must. The bus leaves at 7am and in the winter Medina is still shrouded in darkness at this early hour and negotiating the maze of alleys is no small feat. During the winter months the days are short with the sunrise at around 7.30am and sunset coming early at around 5.30pm.
On arrival at the departure point you make an initial tired greeting of your fellow passengers for the next three days. Like many things in Morocco even dealing with baggage is an adventure and it takes a sharp eye to check your bags arrive on the same bus as you and in one piece for that matter. Then comes the calculated sizing up of the passengers and seating situation, this is a crucial moment as it is here you will be spending a great deal of hours over the next three days; window is good, back is bumpy and the front seats offer the best views. Comfort is an important consideration as parts of the route are extremely rough and a challenge even for the most modern four-by-four let alone our friendly bus.
One thing to bear in mind is that the routes of the tour always take longer than you expect so be prepared with plentiful water supplies, full camera batteries or plenty of spare film. Though there are numerous stops and breaks the toilets in many locations can be unpredictable in cleanliness so monitor your liquid intake. One thing is for sure, you will be so inspired from the natural beauty you see passing from the bus window that you will want to snap away like a maniac, remember that it is a full three days and the treats that await are never ending so save space on your camera. There are also many programmed stops in all the necessary beauty spots so you have time to get the best shots.
The first stop is in Kasbah Aït Benhaddou located along the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. The Kasbahs, which are types of fortresses or fortified cities, exist in most places around Morocco and Aït Benhaddou is one of the most famous in the world and has been a UNESCO Global Heritage Site since 1987. It is situated in Souss-Massa-Draâ on a hill overlooking the the Ouarzazate River. The houses appear to grow out of the ground and almost vanish before your eyes and the stunning sandstone colour shines a deep orange in the sunlight. Though the majority of the town’s inhabitants now live in a more modern village on the other side of the river, Aït Benhaddou is still home to ten families.
As the tour continues on to Ouarzazate you will have many déjà-vu. Before you get all excited and announce to your fellow-passengers that you are the reincarnation of Lawrence of Arabia, you should know that Ouarzazate is also known as the Hollywood of Morocco as many movies have been shot in the area, including world-wide successes such as the Gladiator, Alexander, The Last Temptation of Christ and Jesus of Nazareth to name but a few. In fact it is home to one of the largest movie studios in the world, Atlas Studios. The name Ouarzazate comes from the Berber phrase meaning “without noise” or “without confusion” and is also known as “The Door of the Desert” and it is from here that many excursions to the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara desert begin. While Marrakesh is the capital of the south Ouarzazate is the centre with around 40,000 inhabitants it is well prepared for heavy tourism boasting many hotels of varying standards though with relatively few restaurants. Despite the high number of residents Ouarzazate has a strangely empty feeling to it with the exception of the traditional Moroccan market which fills the centre with colour and life.
For lunch the bus driver leaves you at the door to one of his friends restaurants, but you are spoilt for choice as restaurants are plentiful, the best thing is to be guided by your nose and take a seat in whichever one you find most appealing. Then it is on to the middle of nowhere for the first night in a hotel set in stunning surroundings in the bitter cold. Dinner is followed by live music which tempts you to stay up till the early hours, but sleep is a must for the hardships promised the following day. So early to bed, enjoy the electricity supply and charge up your cameras.
The second day of the program begins with a hearty breakfast and a trip to a typical Berber village, in order to experience the Berber hospitality at first hand. Not unlike salesmen in many tourist places, some of these people, despite their traditional appearance, speak more languages than you will learn in a lifetime. Every step is accompanied by hordes of kids hounding you for your attention and a treat, but as the guide warns you, you should not give them anything, so that they won’t get used to the easy money of tourists. Before you enter the host’s house you have to remove your shoes so socks are a consideration while dressing! Of course they will serve you traditional Berber whiskey, but don’t expect to get tipsy because it is in fact the name of the renowned mint tea. In the meantime you watch the preparation of wool before it is woven into carpets and your visit concludes with the presentation of all the kinds of carpets that you can buy. This presentation is accompanied by all the arguments about why it is better to buy them from the source and if indeed you are planning to buy a carpet, this is your chance. The initial price can be reduced by half if you are willing to bargain in front of your fellow travellers. Depending on the size, the material and your bargaining skills, you can buy a good, hand-made carpet from around € 30-40.
The lunch break takes place at the impressive Todra Gorge, on the east side of the Atlas Mountains, one of the most beautiful places in Morocco. Before tucking into your food, explore the imposing landscape that attracts climbers from all over. A walk along the river, under the shadows of the rocks that reach up to 300 meters, will not only be unforgettable, but will also wake up the Indiana Jones inside you, just in time for the visit to the desert.
The last stop in civilization is in Merzouga. During the drive there the road becomes literally back-breaking. So if you suffer from a sensitive stomach stock up on all the necessary pills, lotions and potions. Another tempting accessory is the traditional blue turban that the guides wear to protect them from the heat and the sand. You can buy it at any of the early stops and ask for a lesson in how to tie it so you can really look the part. You should not part with more than € 11 for it.
As the rough bus ride continues you will see the Sahara emerging on the horizon. Forget the bland, plain, yellow deserts that we know from the movies. The Sahara, with its endless red curves, its soft sands and mysterious shades, is simply the sexiest desert in the world. The one and a half hours that you will spend on the camel are enough for you to take photos of the sunset, get in touch with your child playing with the camel and even find time to ponder on the meaning of life. Keep in mind that the blanket adorning the back of the camel is the very same that will cover you at night. So if this doesn’t appeal to you take along a sleeping bag. No heavy luggage is taken on this part of the trip so pack the necessaries in a smaller back-pack and don’t forget the essentials: warm clothes for the cold night, water, a flashlight and toilet paper.
Just at the point when the camel ride is starting to feel more painful than picturesque, you will arrive at your destination. By this time night has fallen and the time for photographs has passed, so spread your blanket on one of the imposing sand dunes and lie down to take in a view of the sky that you will likely find nowhere else in the world. The stars are brighter and closer than you ever imagined they could be.
Only the rumbling from your empty stomach can bring you back to reality which marks the time for dinner. The last experience of the trip is really the crowning moment, with traditional food and live music served in a traditional family atmosphere at the heart of the desert in traditional tents. You’ll feel an expert on Moroccan food by now, distinguishing between different types of tajine, a typical dish prepared in a heavy clay pot. The other well-known dish is couscous, which can be prepared in many different ways. Sometimes a special soup called harira is served, especially during Ramadan.
Before you have time to soak up the environment, get accustomed to the open-air toilet and sleeping in a tent, the night will have passed and it will be time to wake up. The excursion essentially concludes with a final camel ride to the borders of Algeria from where to marvel at the view of the sunrise.
What remains is the return trip to Marrakech where you arrive around 8pm. Whether you feel happy to be back in the throng of city life or if you are tempted to stay in the desert forever, this is an excursion worth experiencing.